I'm installed in a supermarket cafe while the car has it's MOT. This must be the ideal opportunity to explain the torso shaping for Hiro.First I want emphasise a few things about body measurements. Once a year I stand about in my bra and knickers whilst The Hairy Man weilds the tape measure. All the measurements are carefully recorded in my note book. My measurements don't change much from year to year, but I want to be sure that the thing I'm about to knit will fit me now. I don't measure myself with clothes on because they obscure your body, and make it difficult to measure accurately. I also know that adding 5cm to my bust measurement makes a loose garment that will fit over most shirts. If I don't add any ease, the jumper will still fit comfortably over a fitted shirt. Anything with more that 5cm ease looks baggy and oversized on me.I once had my measurements taken by somebody who had no idea what they were doing, and was bashful about seeing me in my bra. The dress I was making turned out two sizes too big. The Hairy Man is an engineer, and measures carefully. He checks that there are no twists, and that the tape is sitting where it is supposed to. And that the tape is not held too tight as I pretend I'm skinnier than I am.For the torso calculations I needed measurments for my bust, waist, and hip. We also took three centre back measurements. By centre back I mean the knobbly bit at the top of the spine where your neck starts. So, we measured centre back to the point I wanted the jumper to stop on my hips, centre back to waist, and centre back to the point where I like armpit of my jumpers to be.
The next step is to work out the actual garment dimensions. My hips measure 105cm. I like my jumpers to be slim fitting round my hips, (It looks good, and they stay in place) so I took off 5cm. The rest of the jumper I wanted to be loose fitting, so added 5cm to my waist and bust measurements. Then I used the centre back measurements to work out the distances from the hem to the waist (don't forget to subtract the length of the hem or ribbing from this number), then from waist to armpit.
Bother! I've spelt gauge wrong. If only there was a spell checker on my pencil.
Then I worked out how many stitches I needed at the bust, waist and hip. I like to round my numbers up or down so that they are even. The number of stitches for the bust was already set out in the pattern from the size I'd selected. From there I worked out the number of decrease rows I need to work to get to the waist, and the number in increases to get to the bust.