Last time we spoke about this puppy, you had just finished a torso piece and two sleeves. Today we going to be mentioning the S word. That's right, your going to cut a hole in all that neat colour work. You're going to need to steek, otherwise you'll just have some fairly useless tubes.
First, charge your coffee cup.
Start by weaving in all the ends. Some folk don't bother to weave in the ends where they might be cut off when you're steeking. I weave them all. Having extra ends hanging about the back of your work can be confusing, and if you weave them all in it's easier to catch them in your steek.
Next you need to select the method of steeking you feel most comfortable with. My Norwegian Aunty sews her steeks using her sewing machine. I've chewed up enough fabric under me presser foot to feel a bit nervous about putting my knitting near any machine. Hundreds of other folk have done this successfully, so don't let me put you off doing this yourself.
If you have never steeked before, head over to Kate Davies website. She's written some wonderful posts on the theory behind steeking, and demonstrates a crocheted steek. Until now this is the method I've used, and it creates a firm neat edge.
On the Stash Busting Sweater I've used a new (to me) method. I wasn't complete happy with the crocheted method as the finish was a little bulky, and tends to roll over on its self. I'm not all that confident with a crochet hook either. This time I've used the hand sewn method discribbed in this video from the folk at Knitpicks. I found this hand sewn steek really easy, although maybe not as robust as a crocheted steek. I would use this method again where the cut edged was going to end up being enclosed, and hidden away.
The sleeves are the easiest section to steek because you simply secure a line of stitches on either side of the seam line. First, lay the sleeves out flat and measure along the top. Then take the torso piece, identify the side seams, and measure the same distance from the cast off edge down the side seam. Mark this with a pin. There is a chance that your sleeves are slightly different widths, they are hand knitted after all. Choose the shorter length, and mark both steeks the same. Secure the stitches using what ever method you've chosen. (You could try them all if your feeling experimental.) Then bite the bullet and cut! Now it's just a simple matter of sewing in the sleeves, and stitching that clever little facing over the cut edge.
The next step is to sew the shoulders closed. You'll need to leave a gap equivalent to half the circumference of the head. (Remember the standard measurements.) You could cunningly graft this together so it looks seamless. Norwegian Aunty uses a lovely technique where she puts her needle horizontally through the inside legs of the corresponding stitches. It makes this beautiful braided effect. Hopefully you can see it below on Marius Genser.
Steeking the neck is trickier, but not much. No matter what shape of neckline you choose, it needs to be at least 5cm deeper then the shoulders, or it will rub and be dreadfully uncomfortable. I chose the shawl collar so that just couldn't happen. And so that the Number One Nephew would have lovely soft merino round his neck.
Find the middle front stitch and mark it. Work out how deep you want the neck to be. On Marious Genser I made the neckline 5cm deep. On SBNS the neckline is about level with the armpits. Pick up the stitches along the bottom of the neckline. You don't need to secure these stitches in the steek because you're going to knit them straight up. As you can see, I marked the neck line with pins and tailors chalk before sewing. This is another reason I like the hand sewn steek, I find it easy to work on a diagonal.
Then pick up the stitches for your chosen neckline. I did this before cutting away the neck piece so as not to stress the steeked stitches while I was picking up.
A crew neck is probably the path of least resistance. Once you've picked up the neck stitches, knit about six to ten rounds of ribbing. Then purl one round, do another six to ten rounds of ribbing, and cast off loosely. Fold over where you've done the row a purl, and you have a nice facing to stitch over the cut edge inside the neck.
The shawl collar was started from the left side of the base stitches. Ignore the base stitches to begin with. I worked up the side of the neckline in 2x2 rib, and across the back stitches. Turn your work when you arrive at the second shoulder seam. I turned again when I arrived back at the first shoulder seam. Continue working short rows, extending each one by about four stitches until you arrive at the base of the neckline on the opposite side to where you started. Then turn and knit back across all the stitches. When you get to the end of the row, pick up the of the first base stitch, and knit it together with the last of the side stitches. You do this at the end of every wrong side row. Once you picked up all the base stitches, cast off loosely. I used a tubular cast off.
Now carefully cut out the neck piece inside the steek. That's the last of the cutting. You could put bias binding round the cut edge for neatness, but it is quite secure as it is. Sew the unsecured side of the collar inside the base of the neckline.
Well there you have it. One neatly finished Norwegian Sweater, as traditional or madly bright as you like.
(NB Other knitters will want to turn this garment inside out. Don't be alarmed. This is sometimes followed be quiet oooooohs and aaaaaaahs. And may be the odd, "That's how you do it.")
